Hi. I have one of those cool stitch library books that includes a whole bunch of interesting pattern stitches for cables, lace, etc. All of the patterns assume you are knitting on two straight needles & there's no info for knitting on circulars.

My plan is to make a hat on circulars, with a simple rolled brim in stockinette, several rows of a pattern stitch, and then back to stockinette for the decrease rows.

Knitting on circulars is basically working on the right side at all times, so I have concluded that for the stitches taken from the above mentioned book, I have to adjust in order for the patterns to work out--right?

Would you wise ladies look at how I've converted this pattern & tell me if it makes sense? I've never done anything like this before. Thanks...

Straight knitting version:
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, *K1, y. fwd., K2tog.; rep from * to last st; K1
Row 4: Purl
Knit next 5 rows
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K1, *K2tog, y. fwd., K1; rep from * to last st; K1
Row 12: Purl
Knit next 4 rows
Repeat these 16 rows for pattern

My conversion for circulars:
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: K1, *K1, y. fwd., K2tog; rep from * to last st; K1
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: Knit
Row 11: K1, *K2tog, y. fwd., K1; rep from * to last st; K1
Row 12: Knit
Row 13: Knit
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: Knit
Row 16: Purl
Repeat for pattern

Thank you thank you...

yep.
That looks about right.
The only reason you would purl is to create pattern.
e.

looks right to me, too.

xoe

One thing to think about - the K1 at the beginning and end of each row is probably a selvedge stitch (needed to sew the flat piece together), in which case it should be omitted from a circular pattern.

The best way to find out for sure, of course, is to swatch the patterned stitches in addition to your gauge swatch. It will save you a lot of aggravation and frogging if the pattern needs to be tweaked.

-S